Getting out in the waves

Home, Sponsors, Links, Donations, O&P Services, Articles, News, Member Pic's, Founders

Getting out in the waves

by Pegleg Greg

Well after trying to hook up with Rodney Roller and go surfing, My patience paid off in a big way! My first invitation was to meet Rodney at the pier. Somehow we didn’t go out that morning. I waited and waited, then I figured I would go out myself and body surf. After wrestling with the wetsuit donated by John Hollingshead from North County Prosthetics, I found I was too fat to fit into this suit. So, the day wasn’t a total loss.

Next time Rodney wanted to go out at night when I was camping at the beach. So, I took the wetsuit in to a number of local surf shops to see if they would trade? After the first three stores declined me, I found a small shop right next to the beach and the guy traded me. As scheduled, Rodney showed up around 6:00. He mentioned it being somewhat colder at night and offered to come get me in the morning.

Unfortunately for me, Rodney was called in to work earlier that morning. He sent a friend to meet me instead, but somehow we missed each other.

Well, you know what they say about the third time? This time the plan was to meet Rodney and Dana at the pier in the early evening about 6:00. Just like clockwork they rolled into the parking lot in an old red convertible, with surfboards hanging out the back seat. I had picked up a Boogie Board to start with. Out we went into the ocean. This was the first time since my accident for me to be back in the waves. We had a great time watching one another catch waves. Or should I say watching Rodney and Dana catch waves. Without fins I was only able to ride a couple waves. Then Dana gave me his surfboard and he went to the pier to take pictures of us.

This was it! My big debut! Could I even paddle out to the waves? Rodney was right by me all the way. He coached me as we went. He used terms I had never heard before, like “sweet spot” which was the part of the board where you could balance it the easiest. We made it outside! Rodney seemed impressed with me. I felt like I had achieved something great, and I hadn’t even tried to surf yet. Then came time for me to “sit” on the board and position myself to catch a wave. Well, for starters “sitting” on a surfboard was much harder than it looked. Trying to turn around and position myself for a wave proved to be even harder! At this point, Rodney caught the next wave in, with what seemed like little or no effort for him. He left his board on shore and swam out to help me. He would get me all ready for a wave and actually give me a push start into the wave! Wow! What power! I got to my knees and almost stood up. We did this a few more times and I actually got to my feet once! I couldn’t believe it! I actually rode a wave or two. (Most of the time spent on a wave was me holding on and trying to “get up” while I still had a wave left to ride. Dana indicated he got some pictures to share with you guys.

Now it was my turn to go to the pier and take pictures of Dana and Rodney. Meanwhile the sun was setting and it was getting darker by the minute. What a sunset it was! Especially being out in the ocean as the Sun was going down was another awesome experience! I tried my best to get a few pictures of my fellow ampsurf teammates, unfortunately only one or two of my shots had come out. No problem! I had memories of this experience engraved in my mind.

The next time I went out was just Dana and I and a two-legged friend of mine. We met at the pier at 6:00 A.M. This time I got to see the sun come up instead of go down. We all had fun and caught a few rides. The best going to Dana who, after trying hard on a number of waves, He caught one of the biggest, most beautiful waves of the day. Up he went, he was up and riding that wave long before it broke. That one ride was worth it for the whole day. After working so hard, it was great to see Dana having fun and achieving success.

We finished the morning with Dana sharing his surfboard with me so I could give it another try. I did catch some waves but I didn’t do as well standing up. I was wearing a different prosthetic leg and the high sides of the socket interfered with my normal knee action. This is one of the reasons AMPSURF exists, to help professionals work with us to create more effective artificial limbs for us to use.

My neck was rubbed raw by the wetsuit this time. The wetsuit was too big and I had large pools of water trapped in various parts of the suit. It felt like I had gained twenty pounds (just in water).

We left and went to a coffee shop. Dana treated to an eye-opening cup of coffee. I had to make it to work by 10:00 and I just made it in time.

Hopefully, my next report will include details about getting the right size wetsuit and commentaries about me actually standing up while the wave hasn’t yet broke. I am so grateful for the friendship and support of Rodney, Dana, and our prosthetist, John who donated the wetsuit. There is no way I would have ever even tried to surf as an amputee had it not been for the ground work laid by these men. I hope someday to be good enough to teach another amputee how to surf. Until next time? I’ll see you “outside”

Bio: Greg Birkholz is a right leg BK amputee. He lost his leg and use of range of motion in his right arm after a head-on motorcycle (Harley) vs. Ford truck, 100 mph + collision. Other injuries included cracking his helmet in half, broke both arms, legs, his nose, cracked hip and a blood clot which stopped in his heart. He has more metal inside of him than most rifles have. He lives in Arroyo Grande and has a wife and two kids.

MOTTO: Survive then Thrive!

Contact him at pegleg@mycbsmail.com or by mail 375 Helroy Rd Arroyo Grande, CA 93420

Home, Sponsors, Links, Donations, O&P Services, Articles, News, Member Pic's, Founders